25 December 2008, Pokhara, Nepal

And so on to our fifth country on this epic adventure! Beautiful, mountainous Nepal.
We have passed the 5,000km marker and are in great shape having finally shifted the series of foul colds and coughs that have really dogged us for more than a month through India. We are 4 months in to what we have now extended to become an 8 month journey. We have decided that there are more places we want to see to complete our tour of Asia. So from Vietnam we hope to fly down to Borneo for a couple of weeks, then on to the Philipines for 2 or 3 weeks, and finally to Japan for 2 or 3 weeks in time to see the springtime cherry blossom. We hope to end our journey in Tokyo where Andrew's father last worked - we have the letters that he sent home from there and we hope to see the places he saw, and to bring this journey to a logical conclusion (unless the economic crises deepens, in which case there will be real pressure from Mr Norris to cycle home!!).

We spent a day off in Lumbini - birthplace of Buddha - more than anything to try to relax our minds and spirits after the hellish last week in India. The relief was immediate, though it was a good few days before we felt the anger gradually dissipate, and we didn't automatically respond the every approach by a local with our barriers already raised. We had developed a lack of tolerance that didn't please us, and certainly doesn't lead to positive interations with people - we needed to change this as quickly as possible.

Lumbini (just over the border into Nepal) is much visited by Buddhist pilgrims and westerners seeking enlightenment. We were lucky enough to meet a great fellow traveller (Adva from Israel) who is planning to enter a Buddhist retreat here for a 100 day meditation session (14 hours a day, no talking, not much food - Andrew wouldn't last a day!). She took us to the retreat - Andrew and I showed our complete lack of maturity by having to dash out as a fit of uncontrollable giggles threatened as we watched people doing 'walking meditation' - this involves walking very slowly - like, slower than you can really walk without wobbling - focusing on every movement. The funniest was watching a guy very slowly trying to poor a glass of water - water falls from a tap MUCH faster than he would have liked and I feared for his meditative mind! It was the ultimate antidote to India!

Once on the road again, we felt any remaining tension draining away from us. I think my diary entry from 21st December probably says it all - so I'll copy it out here now:

21st December, 2008.
Oh Happy Day! Ooooh Happy DAaay! Dum de dum - tiddly pom etc! Oh yes - Nepal is a good idea! We set off at the crack of dawn (6.45am) ion very damp weather - not raining, but the mist that we have become accustomed to over the last week on this vast plain. Pretty miserable stuff - but today we were not to be deterred, for today we were heading into the mountains! By 10am we had covered 43 km and arrived in Butwal - the last town before the 40km climb up to Tansen. Through the mist we could see the dark outline of the first hills and above our heads we swore we could see a mere suggestion of blue sky. We hoped beyond all hope that as we hit the mountains we would rise above the mist of the valley and at last have views. Like some sort of miracle, in no time at all we found ourselves in sunshine, on a quiet road, passing rhgouh little roadside villages that sound and smell like the Nepal I remember from 9 years ago when Andrew and I came here to trek. Wonderfully engaging smiling faces, men and women and children alike all in full view, going about their daily business together, side by side. The crows of cockerels, the smell of woodsmoke. I was literally on the verge of tears as I physically felt my heart lift with joy. Joyful is the word we both used. It also made me feel sad about the last few weeks in India that have been spent just plodding on and the last week that has been so hideous, when there are such lovely places in the world to be - we were there in India. But it wasn't a waste of time of course - it was interesting, fascinating even, and so important to experience it and know what it is like - what it's all about.

And of course, it means that we appreciate Nepal and the moutains all the more for it. And BOY do we appreciate it. I'm so thrilled with everything that I've been inspired to use the video camera again. Throughout India, though I was determined to take more footage, I just couldn't be bothered - it felt like it was such monotonous cycling that it was of no interest to film. But now I feel inspired again. The road hugs the hills, wiggling and winding like mad. The hillsides are lush and green and everywhere there are tiny paths cutting vertically up from the road - these lead to villages and we see people with conical-shaped wicker baskets, filled with fodder or kindling, climbing steeply up these paths. Below in the gorge is a beautiful green river and big boulders - it's all such a pleasure after weeks of flat cycling through towns or farmland.

The villages are delightful - houses, although often incredibly simple, rustic affairs with thatched roofing and mud coated walls, are usually painted in at least two jolly colours. They are neat and tidy, almost always with vegetable gardens squeezed into any available space, a few chickens, a couple of goats and all neatly swept and up together - a far cry from the villages of India 0 a real pride is taken in even these simple surroundings.

There are school children everywhere and without exception they greet us with 'namaste' and put their hands together in prayer. Incredibly polite, and usually with a little English - they are all keen to say hello and chat as much as possible.

It was a pretty serious climb up to Tansen - back into 'granny gear' for the first time since North of Islamabad - 2 months ago! But we made good progress and arrived will before darkness at about 3.30pm. We found a hotel and went up the hill on foot in search of the 'Old Town' that is why we have come here, and a restaurant that comes recommended. en route, we saw some of the ripped off North Face gear and I have promised Andrew a down gillet for Christmas (ed note: purchased successfully on Christmas eve!) - we hope to find one in Pokhara, not least becuase he could do with an extra warm layer - it was a sweaty climb up to Tansen, but the nights will be chilly in Nepal.

We had a big feed at the restaurant - I've taken a liking to the vegetable sweetcorn soups in Nepal - they mix an egg in too, so they're full of goodness and quite hearty. Then we explored the streets just a little bit. It's not quite the wonderful medieval town that we imagined (ed note: we discovered later that the impressive Palace here, that we couldn't find, was destroyed by the Maoists 2 or 3 years ago - the Maoists are now in power and violence has ended - the people are much more hopeful for the future), but it's nice enough and it's such a pleasure not to be gawped at, constantly surrounded by men and repeatedly being asked all those same damned questions. Nepal is going to be a therapy for us!

........

So! a day off in Tansen and 2 more days of cycling to reach the tourist hub of Pokhara where we arrived yesterday afternoon - Christmas Eve. Here, we are indulging in all the trappings of tourism - hot water, launderettes (the clothing situation was beyond a joke and we are washing every single item we own), pizza, steak! (we are hoping to have steak tonight for our Christmas dinner) beer and even glasses of wine and lattes!!! It all comes at a premium, but what the hell - it's Christmas afterall!

We'll head on tomorrow for the cycle to Kathmandu. En route we will stop off at a village that sounds truly gorgeous - (old Newali buildings, all protected from over-touristing by the local community - clever them!). We should reach Kathmandu around 4 days after leaving here, so will be there in good time for New Year. Our number one focus there is to see if we can get into Tibet - this will undoubtedly mean an expensive private vehicle to escort us and fi we can't cycle there, we'll try to get in as a passenger in the vehicle. Until we reach Kathmandu and talk to some agencies, we don't really know what's possible - but if there's any way we can go into Tibet, we will. We love Nepal so much that we hope to spend the full month of our visa here (or in Tibet) to explore as much as possible. Then it will be on to Thailand we think (China's Yunnan Province looking unfeasible).

So - as today is Christmas Day, we are all thinking of you all lots and lots. We are remembering the wonderful Christmas Dinner our lovely Edinburgh friends prepared for us as a goodbye party and when we tuck into our steak and beer tonight we will raise our glasses to you all. we hope you are all well and happy and having lovely Christmasses. As for 2009 - I suspect we can't hope for wealth for you all, but we can certainly hope for health and happiness in abundance.

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!

All our love
Tracy and Andrew
xxx